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The fitting of bulkheads. I cut my bulkhead plates based on measurements from the CAD model. The plates fit in without much adjustments. As I was to fit the bulkheads on my own, I figured it would be helpful to tack the framing in to hold the plate up. That worked very well.
Bits and pieces
While the bulwark plates hold on there own, they still need stiffeners. A top flange was added, to which wooden rail-caps will be fastened.
The uprights have a twist to them. It would have been good enough and logical to use flat bar for the uprights but we want the boat to have as much as possible the feel of a wooden boat and flat bar would take it all away. Stiffening the bulwarks with wood for the sake of looks would be wrong, using square tubing would also add unnecessary weight and complicate fastening rigging elements to the bulwarks. With a little more work I figured we could add a bit of “volume” and trick the eye with angle profiles; practical and hopefully elegant..
I cut square tubing, keeping the two rounded edges of what would be the exposed side. This way, at most sight angles, the eye sees a square tube (or post) profile. We would then paint the uprights and the band on the bulwarks behind the uprights a dark color to trick the eye in seeing the shadow behind the angle as the side of a post from the continuity of the rounded corner.
The cabin tops
The cabin top was built in the shop, on rainy days, in paralleled with the deck plating. All the sides and deck beams had been Nc cut so it was more an assembly job than fabrication.
The cabins are all bolted to a flange welded to the deck. We wanted to keep the cabin tops removable for several reasons. We will not be limited during the construction or even later by the size of the hatch opening but also we wanted to replace the steel cabin tops by wood ones , down the road, we can. For now steel is faster an cheaper.
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